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Biking With Your Dog
There are several tips I’d suggest before you start to go biking with your dog.
First, if you don’t already have a bike, go to a bike store (even if you don’t buy a bike there) and talk with the knowledgeable people there about what size and type bike you need and how to adjust a bike to fit you. You will be more comfortable if your bike fits you well. Once you know what you need, go to Ebay or local garage sales to get a bike inexpensively. Also, it should go without saying, be sure you can ride the bike safely without the dog before you start riding with the dog.
Secondly, get a Springer attachment so that biking can be done safely. Several places sell them (on the web and in catalogs) but I haven’t seen them in stores. If you do a web search for “Springer” you should be able to find a site, but shop around because prices & S/H really vary. The Springer keeps the dog in place along the side of the bike so they can’t run in front of your bike. It also saves you from having to hold the leash in your hand and prevents them from pulling your bike over.
Photo from the Springer website
I recommend that the Springer be attached to a harness your dog is wearing. Any harness will work, but a harness that has a “V” shaped front (like the one available with the DSA backpack) instead of a horizontal strap across the front would be best. You might want to keep a leash attached to your dog’s collar that you hold (but that has no tension, it’s just a safety) because some dogs have learned how to “back out” of a harness.
A vet check is not a bad idea for your dog especially if you have a dog under 2 years old or a senior or close to senior dog. Your vet should be able to tell if your dog’s growth plates have closed (no longer growing and are more stable.) If you let (or worse, force) young dogs to run or exercise too long (most don’t know when to quit), you can do serious damage to them. You also don’t want to stress an older dog’s possibly arthritic joints with too much too fast (or any dog for that matter.)
You want to introduce your dog to the bike slowly. Some dogs are really spooked by the movement of the bike. Start by walking the bike in a quiet area away from traffic if your dog is not used to walking near traffic with it on one side of you and the dog on the other. Be sure to do some turns so the dog gets used to the front wheel moving from side to side. If your dog is comfortable with that, get on the other side of the bike, so the bike and dog are on the same side of you while you walk. Again, try some turns, but go very slowly at first. If your dog shows any fear or hesitation during any of these steps you’ll need to have treats ready to reward him so that the presence of the bike becomes a predictor of good things (treats.) This part of the training might progress slowly depending on your dog’s personality or it might only take a few minutes. Once your dog will walk comfortably and confidently next to the moving bike, you are ready to attach the Springer and get on the bike. You don’t want to walk the bike with the Springer attached to your dog, because if your dog pulls or spooks sideways away from the bike, it has no weight on it to keep it stable and it might ‘follow’ the dog scraping on the pavement as it goes, further scaring the dog. To start, sit on the bike, but push along with your feet on the ground so you go very slow to help the dog get used to you in the new position on the bike. If your dog is comfortable with this, you can try it in an area with more distractions or traffic. Once your dog is comfortable with it, you’re ready to ride! This process took my dog Coyote about 4 days (a few sessions a day) till I was ready to ride. He’s still not sure about the initial connection to the Springer/bike, but really loves it once we get going.
Once you are ready to ride, there are some rules you should follow:
1_ If it’s over 75* and/or high humidity, be VERY careful if you decide to bike with your dog. Dog’s temperatures are higher than ours and they are working harder than we are while biking even though they are only trotting. They can over heat very quickly. Make frequent stops to rest in the shade.
2_ Always take water and a bowl with you. A water bottle (in a carrier designed for such & available at any bike store or sporting goods dept) and a collapsible bowl do the trick nicely and it allows you to drink too.
3_ Don’t let (or force) your dog to run, they should only trot. You may need to use the brakes on the bike for the first part of the ride. Trotting is best for them, running is very hard on their entire bodies when sustained for more than a very short sprint, especially if they are on pavement.
4_ Always take clean up baggies with you. Exercise invariably causes dogs to have to ‘go’. No one wants to have to walk or ride through a dog pile and it’s the mark of a responsible parent when you take the time to clean up after your dog! Be sure to keep an eye on your dog for signs that they need to relieve themselves. It’s up to you how often you stop for them to do their business. Be sure to remove the dog from the bike attachment if you get off the bike. Never leave the dog attached to a bike you don’t have at least your hands on (preferably your body on or straddling the bike.)
5_ Stop and check your dog’s feet often, especially if you are just starting biking with your dog and/or if you have been on pavement for more than 10 minutes. Dog’s feet have to get used to this activity and if they are not used to prolonged movement it can cause blisters on their pads. Just because they do a lot of walking on pavement doesn’t mean their pads are tough. Biking causes a lot more friction on their feet. Blisters look like lighter spots on the dog’s pads. On light colored pads, they may be pink or reddish spots. These are painful and can cause lameness in your dog. If activity is not stopped, the blisters will break open and be extra painful for your dog for about a week (needing bandaging and extra care from you.) By starting with short distances a few days a week, you will be able to toughen your dog’s pads without causing pain. It would be the same as you having to walk without shoes. At first, you would be susceptible to sores and blisters and rough surfaces would hurt, but after awhile, your feet would get like leather and you could walk much farther and over rougher surfaces than you would think possible. If your dog is not opposed to them, you might want to consider boots for your dog’s feet. If it’s not cold, look for ones with mesh so the dog’s feet don’t get too hot, but still check them often. Also be sure to watch for hazards like broken glass or sharp rocks.
5_ Beware of traffic (vehicles and other people/bikes on the trails or road.) The Springer causes the dog to be out away from the bike and possibly in other people’s path. You can attach the Springer to either side of the bike, so you can choose what is most convenient to keep them away from traffic. If approaching people from behind, be sure to let them know of your intention to pass well in advance of doing so.
6_ Don’t feed your dog right before or right after a long ride. Doing so might cause bloat or torsion which can be lethal. Give them a chance to relax after a ride before you feed them and don’t let them drink too much water right away. Not exercising on a full stomach can help prevent it too.
7_ Watch your dog for signs of tiring or heat stress. Lagging behind, panting extra hard, hanging their head and just looking over all tired. If your dog is starting to lag behind, you’ve gone too far or too fast- stop and rest, preferably in the shade. Watch them extra closely if it’s over 75* or there is high humidity.
8_ Stay safe. If you are riding at dusk or dawn or in low light conditions (just about the only cool time of the day in the Summer), be sure you are visible and that the dog is visible. Many catalogs sell reflective vests for your dog and I’ve even seen collars that light up. A reflective vest on you is a good idea as well as lights or at least reflectors on your bike. Be extra cautious of traffic at these times of day.
Enjoy!
-Lori Biggs, Veterinary Assistant/Kennel Supervisor
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